One of our favorite pieces of bondage furniture is the black bondage sawhorse that you see in many of our spanking photos and bondage pictorials. Some of our members have asked how they can build one, so we're going to give you instructions on how to build a spanking sawhorse. It's inexpensive to build and you can easily take it apart and store it in the closet or under the bed when not in use. The spanking sawhorse is a very effective tool to use on your partner because, if constructed properly, you can put them on it for an extended period of time and you can use it in a variety of ways as we'll show you in the site

Purchasing The Supplies for the Spanking Sawhorse

Supply List
1 Package of Sawhorse Brackets
4 - 30" long 2x4's
1 - 38" long 2x4
12 - medium size screw-in eye bolts
1 Can Flat Black Spray Paint
3' piece Carpet Padding
3' piece of Black Vinyl or Leather Fabric

Before we began to construct the sawhorse, let's discuss the supply's listed above. We choose the black plastic sawhorse brackets because we wanted something that was lightweight, black in color and easy to assemble and disassemble and brackets that would allow different width's of the top board. The sawhorse bracket box shown above (which we purchased at Lowe's) is perfect for what we wanted and we highly recommend them for your use. 

The four 30" long 2x4's are specifically for the legs of the sawhorse and can be any length that you desire. Whatever size you select, be it 24", 30", 36" or more, will determine the height of the sawhorse and ultimately how high the person is that is placed on the sawhorse. A tall person might prefer a longer leg - say about a 36" because that would put the sawhorse high enough to work on the submissive without having to bend over and put a strain on your back. A shorter person might prefer shorter legs, say 24" or so. You can actually make them any height you want or have multiple heights if you prefer, but you'll need four of each height you choose. If you want, you can cut these yourself or have them cut to size at the lumber yard. The quality of the wood is not important since you will be painting over it anyway.

The top piece is the board that goes across the top of the sawhorse from one sawhorse bracket to another. We have selected a 2" x 4" - 38" long board, but again you can customize it to any length you desire. Most females are between five and six foot tall so if you're using your sawhorse for females only, than a 38" board should work out OK. A good way to tell is to measure your subject while on all fours (doggy style) from the tip of their head to the roundest point of the buttocks. To that number add a 6 extra inches on each end of the board for movement and to that add 4 inches for attaching to the sawhorse brackets. So then if they measure 30" from head to tail and you add 6" for subject movement and 4" for attaching to the brackets, you end up with a 40" board (30"+6"+4"=40"). Also, please note that you will need to drill a hole 2" from each end of the board so that your top board can house the bolt that will attach to the sawhorse brackets on each end..

IT IS IMPORTANT to remember that you'll need sawhorse brackets that accept different widths of the top board. If you click on the photo of the sawhorse bracket box above you will see that they advertise that you can use a 4", 6" or 12" wide top board.  The reason this is important is that wider boards are more comfortable for longer play times and for people who are carrying more weight. The heaver the person, the more uncomfortable a narrow board can be so you want to purchase sawhorse brackets that will accept multiple widths of top boards. Also, if you turn your subject around and have them lay back on the top of the sawhorse, a wider board is much safer. Keep in mind, the more comfortable your subject, the longer they will want to stay on the sawhorse. Whatever discomfort they may feel, should be that which is administered AFTER they are positioned on the sawhorse.

The only thing you need to consider about the eye bolts is that they be the type that have wood screw threads on one end so that you can easily screw them into the legs of your sawhorse. And of course, the can of flat black spray paint is so that you can paint the raw wood you're using in the project. Also, you'll need to purchase a small piece of sponge foam carpet padding - something about 3' wide and the width of the padding. So you may end up with a piece 3'wide by 50" long depending upon the width of the roll of padding. This stuff is very inexpensive so pick up a nice thick piece. 

In addition to the hardware store trip, you'll also need to make a stop at a fabric store. Here you will purchase the black vinyl fabric for covering the top board. Again like padding, this comes in a fixed roll width (say 40" wide) and your option is how wide a piece you want them to cut for you (say 3' wide) so you may end up with a piece that's 3' x 40" or so. The cost for the vinyl fabric we purchased was around $5.00 and we have enough to do top boards in various sizes.  

The above photographs show the spanking sawhorse being used in our studio. For a short term spanking, the submissive can be bent over the sawhorse (from the side) with ankles attached to one side and wrists attached to the other side. While the submissive is extremely vulnerable in this position, this is also a short term solution because the subject will become lightheaded from being bent over the horse. For longer term punishment scenes, the submissive should be straddling the padded top as shown in photo one and three above. In this position, the subjects wrists and ankles are firmly attached to the legs of the sawhorse and their weight is rested upon the padded top of the bondage sawhorse. The advantage of this position is that you can spank, play, spank and so on for an extended period of time.  

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